Peace and Tranquillity in Durham County

UK Peace and Tranquillity Week was the theme for a recent visit to lovely County Durham.

Thursday – Durham Cathedral and Barnard Castle

On arrival, I was whisked in a pretty curve from Durham train station to pick up a rental car and given a fistful of Multi-Maps with which to find my way around the countryside over the next four days. Gulp. There was no SatNav and it appeared there was a long drive to Barnard Castle, to stay at Northside Farm Retreat in Boldron. Which way was up, I wondered?

Matthew, the Visit County Durham man, guided me to the inner city for a ‘tranquil nature walk’, starting from Durham Cathedral, and waved goodbye. As it was early, here was an opportunity both to explore the area and to spend some peaceful moments in the glorious old cathedral. Together with Durham Castle, which faces it across Palace Green, this spot is an icon of north-east England.

The Cathedral was founded in AD 1093 and is built on a peninsula of land created by a loop in the River Wear; its west end towers over a precipitous gorge. By the mid-19th century, Durham Cathedral was regarded as the fourth most significant in the entire Church of England hierarchy; signposts in modern County Durham are sub-titled ‘Land of the Prince Bishops’.  Entry to Durham Cathedral is still gained by the medieval gatehouse.

Outside the cathedral, it was cold; the expected guide had not come and we were covering ground I had already wrapped up. As I wanted Barnard Castle in my sights by nightfall, I departed, pausing to gaze over the banks of the River Wear; they are abundant with wildlife, including otters, kingfishers and smart skiffs rowed by university women who shoot like falling stars under the old bridge.

After admiring their form, I headed out of town, stopping to consult with a walker about the direction to Barnard Castle. It took about 90 minutes to get there but it was dark on arrival and where was ‘there’ in relation to bed? I called my host, Gail, who arrived within minutes to escort me back to her family retreat, set amongst rolling dales just off the A66.

Although Northside Farm Retreat is self-catering, I had thought it was a B&B, had eaten nothing since lunch on the train and had no idea that I should have taken groceries. (The last time I did like this kind of trip was in Southern France and Aude Tourism provided us with elegant hampers of food.)

When Gail found out, she first apologized for her lack of cooking skills and then sat me down at her big wooden farm table for a steaming bowl of hearty lentil soup, accompanied by local brown soda bread and a glass of red wine. Only the nearby Rose & Crown was going to beat this kind sustenance.

Restored, I went off to explore Connie’s cottage. Set around a flag-stoned courtyard, this self-catering cottage is ideal for a family or two couples. Downstairs, is a spacious and comfortable lounge, a master bedroom and bathroom and a fully-equipped kitchen with dishwasher. Upstairs, there is an en-suite bedroom with a shower, two beds and a pretty sofa; adjoining this are more areas for lounging around, including two daybeds.

A big, heated swimming pool and spacious sauna lay just a hop and a skip away from the house and cottage. This offers enough relaxing space for a small group of yoga devotees to practice inside during winter, although they might choose to practice outdoors looking towards the North Pennines in sunny weather. On the last afternoon of my visit, I spent a glorious hour or two in the pool. But the night of arrival, I raced to bed with a book while Gail went to pick up the other lost journalist.

Friday – Seaham and Durham City

The next day opened up the many subtle vistas of County Durham, which verges on the North Pennines. The sense of space, the quirky character of the villages and the friendliness and warmth of the County’s people make this a lovely spot for a holiday… or for life.

We were booked into a photography class with Graeme Peacock at Seaham, a cliff side spot near Seaham Hall Hotel and were to have treatments at their Serenity Spa later in the day. As before, it took detours and advice from locals to get there. When Graeme arrived late, apologetic for coming from Scotland, his three eager pupils were given useful tips to improve their image-shooting skills.

After that, we scuttled off to Seaham Hall’s Serenity Spa, which – not surprisingly, given its lush décor and elegance - won a clutch of awards. Here, I was given a restorative Elemis massage by Louise Graham - one of the senior therapists, there. Weeks later, the frozen shoulder that bothered me has not returned.

This interlude was followed around 5pm by a lavish afternoon tea of sandwiches, scones and cakes, accompanied by strong coffee or tea. We fell upon this with eager cries, having starved since breakfast time. Sarah Barber, Hotel Development Manager, told us that Lord Byron had been married at the hall on January 2nd, 1815. Seaham Hall is part of the von Essen Hotel Group.

Our next stop was back in Durham City at the local Oldfield’s Eating House for supper. It was still close to afternoon tea so we just had entrees, here.  They specialise in Durham Blue Cheese made by award-winning cheese maker, Julia Cammiss. We shared some of this pleasantly sharp specialty after entrees of chicken with mushroom and fennel, braised ox tongue and Cullen Skink, a dish of smoked fish with leeks and potato. A pretty Prosecco Rose helped wash it all down but we suffered seriously from unseasonable heating.

Saturday –Wolsingham, Dunstall Dam, Kingfisher Country Park, Escomb, Raby Castle, Barnard Castle and Bowes Castle

On Saturday, it was off to a painting workshop in the Durham Dales with North East artist, Bryan Brown. I took the wrong turn, although I did find the Rose & Crown, and slithered over the moors down to Wolsingham a pretty village full of golden sandstone buildings. Alas, I was late and had missed the all-important introduction so decided, having observed that it was show day at Stanhope, to head up early to Durham Dales Tearooms for luncheon. Wrong. After some time, I gave up the venture and drifted instead up to Tunstall Reservoir.

There, I spent a serene hour watching anglers in waders as they fished, perhaps for river trout.  Refreshed and peaceful, I looked again at the Stanhope traffic and spurned it, diving instead into The Kingfisher Country Park for a quick look. This really is a splendid caravan park, situated in the green surroundings of the Weardale Valley], a short walk from the village of Frosterley.

It was well past lunchtime when I left so I simply ate some bread and fruit bought for exigencies and moseyed off in the direction of the oldest surviving parish church in England, the Saxon Church of Escomb. It will come as no surprise that I became lost. This time, it was a man in a white van who gallantly led me on a five mile drive up hill and down dale nearly all the way to the little Saxon Church. Once there, I met Gill Beddow, a former vicar’s wife.

Over tea and biscuits, she gave a fascinating talk about the building and history of the church. Celtic in style and build from stone mostly tooled by the Romans, it dates back to the 6th century. The porch was built in the late 15th century but all else remains much as it ever was. Over the road is the Saxon Inn, where you can stop and eat, looking out over the church and its lovely grounds. With Salmon Wellington or Ricotta Cannelloni with Spinach and Goats Cheese on offer at the Inn – either for £6.50 – that has to be a bonus.

Backtracking to Barnard Castle, with Gill’s simple instructions, took just an hour of motoring. Along the way, I discovered the huge, medieval Raby Castle and estate. This was alive with harvesting work and I sneaked in to take some photos (it is rarely open on Saturdays) disturbing a cluster of antler-festooned red stags as they browsed beneath huge trees near Raby’s ramparts.

I also visited Barnard Castle proper, sitting high above the River Tees. Built on solid rock in 1125 by Bernard de Balliol, the remains of this castle include the 14th c. great hall, a three-storey keep, and a circular round tower. An adventurous morning might be had exploring its old dungeons. The castle last saw action during the Northern Rising against Queen Elizabeth I in 1569.

King Richard III, the last Plantagenet, and the last English king to die in battle, inherited Barnard Castle through his wife, Anne Neville. It fell into ruins after the king’s death, and its remains are now in the care of English Heritage. Sir Walter Scott begins his epic poem (Rokeby, 1813) with a man standing on guard on the round tower of the Barnard Castle fortress.

After exploring the castle, you might visit the French chateau-like Bowes Museum]. It was built by John Bowes, a successful businessman who travelled to Paris in 1847 to explore his interest in the arts. Here, he bought a theatre and met Parisian actress Joséphine Coffin-Chevallier, whom he married in 1852. Their museum contains the greatest collection of treasures in the North of England.

And now to the culinary highlight of my visit - the Rose & Crown pub in Romaldkirk, Teesdale. This is one of the most decorated restaurants in County Durham and a staunch support of local Teesdale products.By now, becoming familiar with the Barnard Castle area and with clear instructions from Gail, I knew how to get there and back by a simple if astonishingly varied route.

And finally, the culinary highlight of my visit: the Rose & Crown, one of the most decorated restaurants in County Durham. Run by Christopher and Alison Davy in Romaldkirk, Teesdale, they are staunch supporters of local Teesdale products. The food is sublime and the service is in the four star category. It offers just the right blend of friendliness and formality and they have timing down to a fine art.

As soon as I sat down, I was offered a glass of wine and an exquisite appetiser of tarragon chicken, mushroom, Madeira and cream. Another aperitif of local Cotherstone cheese with roasted baked tomatoes and basil dressing came before ‘dinner proper’.

The Rose & Crown’s four course dinner for £30 a person – choosing from five mains - is amazing value. My meal included piquant tomato, pepper and apple soup, grilled monkfish tails with an unusual braised tagliatelle of vegetables, and a warm plum tart for dessert. Unusually, I had coffee and chocolates. Everything was faultless.

I confess to also drinking a classy glass of Pinot Noir 2007, Seven Terraces, Marlborough, NZ, with my earlier dishes and a second NZ wine: Wild Rock, The Infamous Goose 2008, again from Marlborough with the remaining food. This was a fresh, zingy, lime scented Sauvignon Blanc.

You can stay at the Rose & Crown and, given their superb wine list, it would be well worth doing so to make the most of a special occasion. Even the diners are beautifully behaved! D, B&B from £119 (single) or £100 double.

Sunday – Durham Botanic Gardens

On Sunday, I popped into Durham Botanic Gardens to check out the yoga training by Finnish teacher, Meri Erkkla from the Jambo Troung School of Yoga. There were not many people due to unexpected rain but this  gave me a chance to talk to talk with Meri about her approach to yoga, and to check out my photographic skills on a moving target.

Parking my rental car, and handing the keys over to the Botanic Gardens’ staff for safe-keeping, I took a taxi back to Durham and ensconced myself in the coffee bar to await a long delayed train. On the way to the station, the taxi driver pointed out a secret entrance to Durham Cathedral where special guests are ushered through on occasions that warrant this.

The combination of openness and intrigue in relation to Durham city and its environs is indeed worth exploring in more depth. Another day.

Getting There

For more information about County Durham and a Durham VIP Pass:  www.visitcountydurham.org

Accommodation

Connie’s Cottage is ideal for a family or two couples. A second cottage will open in spring and hiring the two cottages would provide ample room for a large family or a small yoga retreat. Prices start at £300 per week.

Self-catering cottages: www.northsidefarmretreat.co.uk/

Food & accommodation: www.rose-and-crown.co.uk/